Journal
Jalón Valley Wine Country: Bodegas, Moscatel and Mistela
By Elia Living ·
The Jalón Valley is roughly 20 minutes from the coast — a short drive from Jávea, Moraira, or Dénia — yet a world apart in character. Terraced hillsides of Moscatel vines, white villages framed by almond and orange groves, and cellar doors that have been pouring the same amber mistela for generations. For residents and property owners on the Costa Blanca North, the valley is one of the quieter pleasures that reward a weekday morning or a Sunday drive inland.
The Grape: Moscatel de Alejandría
The vine that defines this landscape is Moscatel de Alejandría — Muscat of Alexandria — one of the oldest cultivated varieties on Spain's Levantine coast and the principal white grape of the DO Alicante La Marina sub-zone, the coastal appellation covering much of the Marina Alta.
It yields two quite different wines. The dry white is pale gold, intensely floral, and excellent alongside marinated anchovies, salted almonds, or grilled langoustines. The mistela — the valley's most emblematic product — is a sweet, fortified wine made by adding grape spirit to freshly pressed juice before fermentation begins. Fermentation stops, the natural sugars are preserved, and the result is a rich, fragrant drink carrying notes of dried apricot, orange peel, and honey.
Mistela holds a particular place in local culture: for many families along the coast it is the Christmas Eve drink, served ice-cold alongside turrón and polvorones. A five-litre ceramic jug from the valley cooperative costs very little and is, arguably, the most authentically local gift you can bring home from the area.
Because Mediterranean summer heat ripens the berries fast and evenly, the Moscatel de Alejandría harvest can begin as early as mid-August — among the earliest-picked grapes in Spain, according to the DO Alicante. Most of the valley crop is gathered by late September.
Bodega Cooperativa de Xaló
The Bodega Cooperativa de Xaló — known locally as Bodegas Xaló — is the beating heart of the valley's wine production. Around 400 grower-members farm close to 400 hectares of Moscatel vines, contributing their fruit to the cooperative's range under the Moscatel Vall de Gorgos label, sold in both bottle and the generous five-litre format beloved by regulars.
The shop and tasting room in Xaló village are open most days. It is perfectly normal to arrive and find locals filling their own containers directly from large vats — a reminder that this is everyday, working wine culture rather than a staged visitor attraction. Guests are welcome to taste the dry white and the mistela before buying, and the prices remain remarkably modest.
The cooperative also serves as the departure point for free guided Saturday walks organised by the Comunitat Valenciana tourism board, covering vineyard paths, village heritage sites, and the surrounding countryside. Recent programmes have included dates in late September and October, coinciding with post-harvest calm. Check the current calendar on the official Comunitat Valenciana events page before travelling.
Bodegas Riko
A short distance away in the same village, Bodegas Riko offers a more structured wine-tourism experience. Housed in a building that dates to 1800, this family winery — with roots in the early twentieth century — runs organised visits that move through the winery's historic production equipment, the Toll del Gos Moscatel vineyard, the ageing cellar, and a tasting of the bodega's mistela paired with local embutidos. A beginner's tasting class introduces the vocabulary and aromas of the wines, useful for anyone new to Spanish wine culture.
Tours are available in Spanish, English, and Catalan. Opening hours are Monday to Friday 11:00–16:00, and Saturday from 11:00. A guided tour costs approximately €24–25 per person. Advance booking is strongly recommended in autumn.
Contact: Avda Pla de la Sèquia, 33, Xaló · +34 966 480 294 · bodegasriko.com
When to Go
| Season | What to expect |
|---|---|
| Spring (April–May) | Almond and orange blossom; the annual Fira del Vi wine fair with local producers, folk music, and artisan markets |
| Late summer (Aug–Sept) | Harvest under way; bodegas busy; the valley carries the scent of crushed Moscatel grapes |
| Autumn (Oct–Nov) | Post-harvest quiet; fresh wine stocks; free guided walks on selected weekends |
| Winter (Dec–Feb) | Mistela season; ideal for buying; the valley is peaceful and luminously clear |
The Sunday market in Xaló is well worth pairing with a bodega visit. Popular with expats from across the coast, it draws stalls selling local produce, antiques, ceramics, and vintage clothing — and gives the drive a second reason.
Getting There
From Jávea, take the CV-734 south through Gata de Gorgos and into the valley — about 20 minutes. From Moraira, the CV-750 inland via Benissa is the natural route; from Dénia, drop south on the N-332 and pick up the valley road near Ondara. A car is the most practical option, and the drive through orange groves and dry-stone terracing is an attraction in its own right.
Neither bodega charges a meaningful entry fee for a simple tasting. A half-day combining the Sunday market, a walk to the cooperative, and a guided session at Bodegas Riko fits easily before lunch. The menu del día in the valley's village restaurants typically runs to €12–15 — unhurried and very good value for the quality.
The Jalón Valley has almost no agency-authored guides compared with the coastal towns, which means a genuinely independent discovery awaits on the other side of the hills from Jávea. The wine is the reason to go; the landscape is the reason you will want to return.
Frequently asked questions
What grape variety produces Jalón Valley wine?
Moscatel de Alejandría (Muscat of Alexandria), the principal white grape of the DO Alicante La Marina sub-zone and the oldest cultivated variety widely grown on Spain's Levantine coast.
What is mistela and how should I serve it?
Mistela is a sweet fortified wine made by adding grape spirit to freshly pressed Moscatel juice before fermentation can begin. It is traditionally served ice-cold as an apéritif or alongside Christmas sweets such as turrón and polvorones. A small ceramic jug makes an excellent house gift.
Do I need to book in advance at the Jalón Valley bodegas?
The Bodega Cooperativa de Xaló operates as an open shop most days and welcomes walk-ins. Bodegas Riko offers guided tours (Mon–Fri 11:00–16:00, Sat from 11:00) and strongly recommends pre-booking, especially in autumn. Contact Riko directly on +34 966 480 294 or via bodegasriko.com.
When does the Moscatel harvest happen?
The DO Alicante confirms that Moscatel de Alejandría can be harvested from mid-August, making it among the earliest-picked grapes in Spain. Most of the Jalón Valley crop is gathered by late September.
How far is the Jalón Valley from Jávea and Moraira?
Around 20 minutes from Jávea and 15–20 minutes from Moraira by car, following inland routes through the Marina Alta countryside.
Is there anything else to do in the valley beyond wine tasting?
Yes — the weekly Sunday market in Xaló is popular with expats and locals alike, and free guided walking tours depart from Bodegas Xaló on selected Saturdays in September and October, organised by the Comunitat Valenciana tourism board.